History

The Missing Namesake Of North Philly’s Lost Necropolis

October 21, 2014 | by Harry Kyriakodis

 

Traces of Monument Cemetery on Broad Street at Temple University | Photo: Harry Kyriakodis

Editor’s Note: This is the second in an October series on Philadelphia cemeteries.

The last memorial stones of Monument Cemetery, about two dozen grave markers, reveal themselves at low tide on the western bank of the Delaware River under the Betsy Ross Bridge, a strange and unnerving sight (see them in this Hidden City photo gallery, HERE). Several thousand other grave markers may be on the opposite bank of the river, submerged. But what of the grand monument the cemetery was named for?

Monument Cemetery was the city’s second largest Victorian era rural cemetery–designed for strolling and reflection. Laurel Hill Cemetery was the largest; Woodland Cemetery is another Philadelphia burial ground of this type. Established before the consolidation of the city, in 1837, the cemetery was situated in what was the far northern reaches of Philadelphia–15th Street and Montgomery Avenue today.

Monument Cemetery

Monument Cemetery’s original proprietor, John A. Elkinton, eloquently described his new bucolic burial ground during a commencement speech in 1839:

The plan of the Monument Cemetery contemplates improvements of the most extensive kind, in which the skill of the architect and taste of the gardener are equally called into requisition. Trees wave their shady branches and flowers scatter their fragrance over the whole scene. The weeping willow and the dark cypress mourn in unison over the graves around; and the modest blossoms that expand and perish, forever remind man that, like them, he is passing away. The unostentatious and silent lessons of mortality, are taught by every thing that meets the eye. The winds sigh a requiem among the foliage of the trees, while the birds singing in their branches render adoration and praise to the Great Disposer of all events—the Supreme Arbiter of life and death. We cannot but believe that this Cemetery will soon be one of the choice spots in the vicinity of our city, to which the stranger will direct his steps with as much eagerness as to the famous Pere La Chaise of Paris, or the wonderful Scutari near Constantinople.

This photograph shows the removal of the monument of Monument Cemetery on June 6, 1956. | Temple University Urban Archives.

The removal of the monument of Monument Cemetery on June 6, 1956. | Temple University Urban Archives.

Elkington named his cemetery Père Lachaise.

Eventually, after the Civil War, officials installed a 70 foot high obelisk in memory of George Washington and Marquis de Lafayette, two Revolutionary War heroes revered in Philadelphia (Lafayette had visited Philadelphia in 1824, on a hero’s tour), and renamed the cemetery for the monument. Resembling a miniature version of the Washington Monument later erected in Washington, DC, the work was designed by John Sartain, the famed Philadelphia engraver, publisher, and architect.

Urban Renewal

A Père Lachaise or not, Monument Cemetery–and its great obelisk–endured as the city grew around it. Talk of removing the cemetery–a common practice in the urban development of the city–began in the late 1920s, about the time that the place was considered “full.” The matter became pressing after World War II and the G.I. Bill, when Temple University, courting commuters, needed parking.

In his book Philadelphia Graveyards and Cemeteries, Thomas H. Keels asserts that Temple launched a campaign to remove Monument Cemetery, considering it to be both an eyesore and a moral blight. But even though the cemetery was unkempt like many of Philadelphia’s 19th century burial grounds, it was not abandoned. Its owners fought against Temple’s plans and hoped to sell the property to another cemetery company.

Monument dump site

Monument Cemetery dump site under the Betsy Ross Bridge | Photo: Michael Bixler

The City and the university won out, however. The land’s value was rising and Philadelphia, through its assertive Planning Commission and Redevelopment Authority, aggressively sought to remake the city. In 1955-56, the City removed the graves and deeded the land to Temple, for ballfields and parking lots.

Some 28,000 bodies were re-interred at Lawnview Cemetery at 500 Huntingdon Pike in Montgomery County. About 300 of these 28,000 bodies were reburied with their original tombstones because family members could be located. Yet the rest of the headstones and other decorative stonework of Monument Cemetery—including some impressive works of art by Victorian sculptors—were simply dumped onto the Delaware River near the Philadelphia side of the Betsy Ross Bridge for use as riprap to strengthen the shoreline under the bridge against erosion.

The Obelisk

Sartain’s monument to Washington and Lafayette was erected on May 29, 1869, and, according to plans, was placed in the middle of the burial grounds. It was intended to be the cemetery’s center of attraction in the days when spending a pleasant day at a necropolis was considered both natural and relaxing.

The sculptor adorned the obelisk with several bronze embellishments he devised (along with the monument’s inscriptions), including two nine foot tall bronze medallions with profiles of Washington and Lafayette. According to maps and aerial photos, Monument Square, as it was called, was precisely in the center of the block now surrounding Temple’s Geasey Field near Norris Street.

1862 map showing Monument Cemetery, from Smedley's Philadelphia Atlas, at www.philageohistory.org, and a modern map of the same vicinity, from Goggle Maps.

Right: 1862 map showing Monument Cemetery | Smedley’s Philadelphia Atlas                                                                                                   Left: 2013 digital image of the same vicinity | Goggle Maps

A booklet called Ceremonies on the Completion of the Monument to the Memory of Washington and Lafayette in the Monument Cemetery of Philadelphia (1869) reveals the motivation of cemetery officials for erecting this patriotic memorial. They envisioned the work as a major draw for the public and issued press releases claiming that the granite column would distinguish Monument Cemetery from any other cemetery in the nation. The graveyard’s managers had established a $5,000 reserve fund to pay for the monument. Unfortunately, they repeatedly dipped into the fund for improvements to the grounds, so it was not until 1858 that money was available to purchase the obelisk.

Immortal Washington

The Washington-Lafayette obelisk of Monument Cemetery. From Ceremonies on the Completion of the Monument to the Memory of Washington and Lafayette in the Monument Cemetery of Philadelphia (1869).

The Washington-Lafayette obelisk of Monument Cemetery | Ceremonies on the Completion of the Monument to the Memory of Washington and Lafayette in the Monument Cemetery of Philadelphia (1869)

The president of the cemetery’s managing company proclaimed in Ceremonies on the Completion of the Monument that the memorial was “the only material one in the State, certainly in the City of Philadelphia, in memory of that illustrious man, who by his courage and fortitude as the leader of the army of the American Revolution–his wisdom and prudence as a Statesman, and first President of the United States, and his many virtues as a citizen, so endeared him to his countrymen that by common consent, they conferred upon him the proud title of ‘the father of his country’–Our own immortal Washington!”

Furthermore, the booklet contains an oration by William B. Mann that he recited during the monument’s dedication on May 29th, 1869. Mann followed along in the same patriotic spirit as his preceding speakers, but concluded his oration with what could be interpreted as incidental foreshadowing on the fate of the cemetery and the monument he praised:

The wasting hand of time will efface these inscriptions; the neglect of those who come after us may fail to renew them; the stones that constitute this pile may become a heap of ruins; our proudest memorials may fall into decay, and perish from the earth; “When water-drops have worn these stones away, And blind oblivion swallowed cities up;” let us fondly hope that even then the great fabric of Constitutional Government erected by our forefathers shall continue to exist from age to age, the proudest and most enduring monument of the name and fame of those great benefactors of mankind, who will only be forgotten when liberty has no altar, or freedom no votary to worship at its shrine.

The shrine, however, is lost. Most likely, Sartain’s obelisk was callously smashed to bits before being dumped along the Delaware River with many of the other memorial stones from Monument Cemetery. Any information about its fate would be well received.

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About the Author

Harry Kyriakodis Harry Kyriakodis, author of Philadelphia's Lost Waterfront (2011), Northern Liberties: The Story of a Philadelphia River Ward (2012) and The Benjamin Franklin Parkway (2014), regularly gives walking tours and presentations on unique yet unappreciated parts of the city. A founding/certified member of the Association of Philadelphia Tour Guides, he is a graduate of La Salle University and Temple University School of Law, and was once an officer in the U.S. Army Field Artillery. He has collected what is likely the largest private collection of books about the City of Brotherly Love: over 2700 titles new and old.

19 Comments:

  1. J. Kozlowski says:

    I always wondered what those Tombstones were doing under the Betsy Ross Bridge. You can not even have access to that area anymore. Thank You for the Info

  2. s. diehl says:

    These stories are so interesting thank you for sharing . Born and raised fishhowner not a new import hippster would love to know more about the past of fishtown

  3. Davis says:

    Fascinating article, Harry K. I have long wondered what happened to that enormous cemetery. The area could well use the green space that was so hastily destroyed.

  4. Roman Blazic says:

    These books are a very good starting point for a well rounded historic look at Fishtown and Kensington: http://kennethwmilano.com/page/Home/tabid/72/Default.aspx

    My best offering is on the courts of Fishtown: http://romanblazicwordsandpictures.blogspot.com/2013/10/the-courts-of-fishtown.html

    1. See the message (above) about Fishtown from Ken Milano. And see my book about Northern Liberties (Northern Liberties: The Story of a Philadelphia River Ward).

  5. Tom Keels says:

    A great piece, Harry, filled with lots of fresh detail I wasn’t aware of. Ed Snyder’s Cemetery Traveler blog (thecemeterytraveler.blogspot.com) also contains good info on Monument. Along with Sartain’s great central obelisk, I always wondered what happened to the Sartain family monument, a wonderful plinth topped by a majestic sphinx. I don’t think it followed the family remains to either Mount Peace or Lawnview!

  6. Beverly W. says:

    Many of my ancestors were buried in Monument. So disgraceful!

    1. Barbara K. says:

      Beverly W., Do you know if your relatives in the 50s were notified at the time prior to removal of remains of your family members? It must have been deeply disturbing to learn of the disposition and relocation of those whose bodies had been interred, assumedly forever. Barbara

  7. Joe Donahue says:

    I lived in South Phila when the Cemetery on which St. Maria Goretti High School stands was destroyed to build this school. There was a stench over the area as the bodies were disturbed. I believe this was St. Mary Cemetery but not sure. I was surprised that the Catholic Church would permit this. It came to be know that the company hired to relocate the bodies just dumped everything in a mass grave in the suburbs.

  8. Ryan O'Hara says:

    The 20th Cavalry and 186th PA Regiment camped at MyMonument Cemetery during the Civil War according to the foldout map in the back if ‘Philadelphia in the Civil War (Taylor)

  9. Christine Seveins says:

    This is upsetting. I am doing my genealogy and my 5th Great Grandfather was buried here. On the document: List of interments – Monument Cemetery. William Harwood (3/3/1770 – 3/4/1847), March 11, 1847 number 1 page 105 Section A lot 464. I don’t know if family was available when the graves were moved. Do you know how I would go about finding him? Thank You.

    1. Maria A says:

      Many of the graves were moved to Lawnview Cemetery in Jenkintown/Rockledge. If you call the cemetery office they have records.

  10. Joe Bisicchia says:

    Great work Harry. All of this history you share is a treasure…and you are a treasure for keeping it alive.

  11. Sandra Boyer says:

    So even when you buy a plot for your final resting place they can take it. How disturbing is that.

    1. TJM says:

      The exact thought I had. Looks like it was a little over 30 years after burials stopped that the land was taken. Guess that’s was long enough that people who cared were either gone or old enough that no one else cared about their history. More history lost ‘for ballfields and parking lots’.

  12. cfoam says:

    It would be great if someone would post where the cemetery records could be found. At least people could find where the final resting place of there ancestors WAS.

  13. David Kaminski says:

    If you go to Lawnview Memorial Park in Rockledge, PA – there are two bronze profiles of Washington and the Marquis de Lafayette on the marble base of a flagpole. A bronze plaque states that these were originally dedicated in 1869. Are these the bronze profiles that were on the monument in Monument Cemetery? Were they placed at Lawnview Memorial Park when approximately 20,000 bodies were moved there in 1956?

    1. Kim J Lowers says:

      Wow i think you just solved the mystery of the missing plaques.

  14. James P says:

    I just discovered this tragic article about the destruction of a cemetery all in the name of progress and redevelopment. The dead can’t speak for themselves but they have been grossly dishonored. Families paid large sums of money for memorials to their loved ones. Now they are sacrilegiously discarded in a landfill. Outrageous!!! I highly suspect that many pockets were padded to make this happen. The city and Temple University should be made to reclaim and restore every one of those stones. Perhaps they could be incorporated into a respectful monument to the dead.

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